

How to Build a Slatted Fence
A modern look, easy to build – here’s how to do it right
Slatted fencing is one of the most popular projects we’re seeing at Wood Green Timber right now. Whether you’re replacing tired panels, screening off a garden room, or framing the front of your house, a slatted fence adds instant style and structure — and you don’t need to be a pro to build one.
This step-by-step guide walks you through how to build a slatted fence using our UC3 treated battens and timber posts — whether you’re going full height or creating a low decorative screen.
What You’ll Need (From Us)
-
Treated timber battens – UC3 rated, in 18x44mm or 18x94mm
-
Fence posts – smooth green treated or brown treated options
-
Postmix – to secure posts (unless fixing to an existing frame)
-
Stainless steel nails, screws or galvanised fixings
-
Optional: timber treatment oil, stain, or exterior paint
Tools You’ll Need
-
Drill/driver or nail gun (stainless brads only)
-
Tape measure
-
Spirit level or laser level
-
Spacers (5mm recommended) or small offcuts
-
Handsaw or mitre saw
-
String line
-
Rubber mallet
-
Spade or post hole digger
Step 1: Set Your Posts
-
Mark your post positions — typical spacing is 1.8m–2.4m between posts.
-
Dig holes approx. 600mm deep (or deeper if it’s a high fence).
-
Drop each post in and use Postmix to secure — make sure they’re perfectly upright and aligned using a spirit level and string line.
-
Allow to set before moving on (approx. 20–30 mins with fast-set mix).
WGT Tip: If you're fixing to a wall or frame, use bolt-down post supports or brackets for speed.
Step 2: Plan Your Batten Layout
-
Decide your fence height: standard heights include 900mm (front gardens), 1.2m (screens), or 1.8m (full privacy).
-
Choose your batten size – wider boards (18x94mm) give more privacy, narrow (18x44mm) feels more open.
-
Allow for 5mm gaps between battens — consistent gaps are key to getting that clean slatted look.
Pro tip: Cut a few 5mm spacers or use plastic tile spacers to keep everything even as you go.
Step 3: Fix Your Battens
-
Start at the bottom and work your way up.
-
Fix each batten to the front face of the posts using:
-
Stainless steel screws
-
Galvanised nails
-
Or a nail gun with stainless brads (if you’re quick and confident!)
-
-
Use your spacers between each row to keep gaps consistent.
-
Keep checking levels and alignment — step back every few rows to make sure it’s sitting straight.
Optional: For added strength, run a horizontal rail behind the middle of the fence and fix to that as well.
Step 4: Finishing Options
Your slatted fence is ready to go, but you’ve got plenty of finishing options depending on the look you want:
-
Leave it natural – timber will gently silver over time
-
Oil it – enhances the grain and protects against weathering
-
Paint or stain – modern colours like black, grey or dark green are on trend
-
Varnish – gives a sealed, satin finish and easy wipe-clean surface
WGT Tip: Whatever finish you go for, let the timber dry out fully after delivery before painting or oiling — especially in warm weather.
Want to Build Your Own?
Bring in your measurements or a rough sketch and we’ll help you figure out exactly how many battens, posts and fixings you’ll need. Whether it’s a front boundary, a side screen or a full garden upgrade, we’ll make sure you get it right first time.
Wood Green Timber — real materials, real advice, proper help.
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How to Build a Slatted Fence
A modern look, easy to build – here’s how to do it right
Slatted fencing is one of the most popular projects we’re seeing at Wood Green Timber right now. Whether you’re replacing tired panels, screening off a garden room, or framing the front of your house, a slatted fence adds instant style and structure — and you don’t need to be a pro to build one.
This step-by-step guide walks you through how to build a slatted fence using our UC3 treated battens and timber posts — whether you’re going full height or creating a low decorative screen.
What You’ll Need (From Us)
-
Treated timber battens – UC3 rated, in 18x44mm or 18x94mm
-
Fence posts – smooth green treated or brown treated options
-
Postmix – to secure posts (unless fixing to an existing frame)
-
Stainless steel nails, screws or galvanised fixings
-
Optional: timber treatment oil, stain, or exterior paint
Tools You’ll Need
-
Drill/driver or nail gun (stainless brads only)
-
Tape measure
-
Spirit level or laser level
-
Spacers (5mm recommended) or small offcuts
-
Handsaw or mitre saw
-
String line
-
Rubber mallet
-
Spade or post hole digger
Step 1: Set Your Posts
-
Mark your post positions — typical spacing is 1.8m–2.4m between posts.
-
Dig holes approx. 600mm deep (or deeper if it’s a high fence).
-
Drop each post in and use Postmix to secure — make sure they’re perfectly upright and aligned using a spirit level and string line.
-
Allow to set before moving on (approx. 20–30 mins with fast-set mix).
WGT Tip: If you're fixing to a wall or frame, use bolt-down post supports or brackets for speed.
Step 2: Plan Your Batten Layout
-
Decide your fence height: standard heights include 900mm (front gardens), 1.2m (screens), or 1.8m (full privacy).
-
Choose your batten size – wider boards (18x94mm) give more privacy, narrow (18x44mm) feels more open.
-
Allow for 5mm gaps between battens — consistent gaps are key to getting that clean slatted look.
Pro tip: Cut a few 5mm spacers or use plastic tile spacers to keep everything even as you go.
Step 3: Fix Your Battens
-
Start at the bottom and work your way up.
-
Fix each batten to the front face of the posts using:
-
Stainless steel screws
-
Galvanised nails
-
Or a nail gun with stainless brads (if you’re quick and confident!)
-
-
Use your spacers between each row to keep gaps consistent.
-
Keep checking levels and alignment — step back every few rows to make sure it’s sitting straight.
Optional: For added strength, run a horizontal rail behind the middle of the fence and fix to that as well.
Step 4: Finishing Options
Your slatted fence is ready to go, but you’ve got plenty of finishing options depending on the look you want:
-
Leave it natural – timber will gently silver over time
-
Oil it – enhances the grain and protects against weathering
-
Paint or stain – modern colours like black, grey or dark green are on trend
-
Varnish – gives a sealed, satin finish and easy wipe-clean surface
WGT Tip: Whatever finish you go for, let the timber dry out fully after delivery before painting or oiling — especially in warm weather.
Want to Build Your Own?
Bring in your measurements or a rough sketch and we’ll help you figure out exactly how many battens, posts and fixings you’ll need. Whether it’s a front boundary, a side screen or a full garden upgrade, we’ll make sure you get it right first time.
Wood Green Timber — real materials, real advice, proper help.