How to Lay Porcelain Paving

A clear step-by-step guide from Wood Green Timber

Porcelain paving looks the part, lasts for decades, and is far easier to maintain than natural stone — but it does need a slightly different approach when it comes to installation.

Whether you're doing it yourself or hiring someone in, this guide will walk you through how to lay porcelain slabs the right way so they stay sharp, solid and safe for years to come.

What You’ll Need (From Us)

• 16mm or 20mm porcelain paving slabs

• Primer slurry – essential for bonding

• Jointing compound – for clean, weed-free gaps

• MOT Type 1 aggregate – for your sub-base (available in bulk bags)

• Optional: Indian sandstone slabs for contrast or budget projects

Tools You’ll Need

• Shovel, rake and wheelbarrow

• Wacker plate (for compacting the sub-base)

• Spirit level & string line

• Mixing tray or cement mixer

• Trowel and notched trowel

• Rubber mallet

• Tile spacers

• Wet cutter or angle grinder with porcelain-rated diamond blade

• Bucket, brush and sponge

Step 1: Prepare Your Area

• Mark out the area using stakes and string

• Dig down around 150–200mm below your finished level

• Remove all turf, loose soil or debris

• Compact the area using a wacker plate

Step 2: Lay Your Sub-Base

• Add 100–150mm of MOT Type 1

• Rake it level and compact it in layers

• The finished sub-base should be solid, level, and sloped away from buildings (1:60 fall) to allow drainage

Step 3: Prepare Your Bedding Mortar

For 20mm porcelain, use a traditional wet mortar mix:

• 4 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement

• Mix to a damp, workable consistency (not sloppy)

For 16mm porcelain, a specialist external tile adhesive may be better — ask in branch if unsure.

Step 4: Prime Each Slab

Before laying any slab, apply primer slurry to the back of it using a brush or roller. This is non-negotiable — it ensures a strong bond between the non-porous porcelain and the mortar bed.

WGT Tip: Do one slab at a time so the primer doesn’t dry before laying.

Step 5: Lay the Slabs

• Lay each slab onto the fresh mortar bed

• Tap gently into place with a rubber mallet

• Use tile spacers to keep gaps consistent (typically 3–5mm)

• Check levels and fall with a spirit level as you go

Dry-lay your pattern first if needed to make sure your layout flows correctly.

Step 6: Cut Where Needed

• Use a wet cutter or angle grinder with a porcelain-rated blade

• Mark cuts carefully and always cut outdoors with proper PPE

• Porcelain is dense — don’t force it. Let the blade do the work

Step 7: Jointing

Once your slabs are fully set (usually 24+ hours):

• Brush out any loose dust

• Use an external jointing compound suitable for porcelain

• Work it into the gaps with a squeegee or pointing tool

• Clean any excess immediately with a damp sponge

Step 8: Clean Up & Seal Edges (Optional)

Once everything’s set and joints are cured:

• Give it a light clean with water

• You can finish edges with trims, gravel, bricks or sleepers depending on your layout

Want the Easy Version?

We supply everything you need — and we’ll help you work out how much of it you need. Bring your sketch, measurements or photos and we’ll get you a materials list and delivery sorted.

Wood Green Timber — your go-to for porcelain paving, sandstone, and proper project advice.